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Electrolytic capacitors can be picked up from hobby electronic stores such as dick smith and jaycar electronics.
The electrolytic capacitor has polarity, and will have a voltage and capacitance rating, in farads (F), the values should be imprinted on the side, how’s your photo macrovision ability ?
__________________ Case: Antec Fusion v2 CPU: Intel C2D E6300 M/B: Abit Fatal1ty F-I90HD Mem: 2GB Corsair PC 6400 Video: ATI HD 2400XT Passive HDD: OS, 160GB Samsung Spinpoint + Recordings, 500GB Samsung Spinpoint DVD: Pioneer BD-ROM BDC-202 SATA + XBOX360 HD DVD Tuner: Digital Now Dual Hybrid PCI-Express S2 Display: Samsung 1080p 40 Inch LA40F71BX with HDMI 1.2 Input: OEM XP MCE 2005 remote and wireless keyboard OS: Vista Ultimate 32 SP1 Audio: Onboard Realtek ALC888 -> SPDIF TOSLINK -> Yamaha RX-V396 receiver
Looks like you're having a bunch of fun with that machine...
As the others have said, it's an easy fix. If you have the original cap take it into Jaycar or DSE and ask a sales dude for a replacement (just check the ratings are the same) to be safe. Buy a decent soldering iron/solder if you don't have one and maybe a solder sucker or copper braid to clean the old contacts. Stick it in the holes (right way around), and solder it on the back of the board, cut off the excess legs and your done.
If you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself if you take the cap and the card into any old tv repair place they'll be more than happy to do it for you for a couple of $$, they might even do it at Jaycar for you.
like the others have said easy fix.......but you're best noting that your entire GPU is now voided its warranty - even if something totally unrelated goes wrong there's no way they'll allow you to RMA it as its suffered 'physical damage'.
Hardware co's are such jerks as they will literally look for ANY reason to reject a warranty claim.
A good one i had was an Antec PSU....I'd removed the fan grilles on it to reduce turbulence....anyway I tried to RA it and was told without the grilles it'd be rejected as I'd 'altered it'.....so I had to buy the fans grilles and put on. RMA approved.
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WARNING: I strongly recommend AGAINST shopping at Fluidtek
Yeah it looks an easy fix, might give jaycar a go on wednesday arvo.
just got to find the right one now
Am i right in that you remove all broken solder until there are two small holes and feed the new cap with its stands in and apply solder to the back side of the card?
Yep, that's the idea Just don't push it in too hard. People make the mistake of thinking it should sit flush on the board and you'll bend the pins too far if you do that. For what it'll cost I'd get 2 replacements just in case.
When you solder it heat the pin and pad at the same time and then apply the solder to the pin, don't try and melt the solder onto the wire, let the wire of the pin and the pad itself melt it and don't use too much, just enough to get a nice coverage on the pad. Don't blow on it to cool it down and hold it with pliers unless you like burnt fingers It'll cool enough after a couple of seconds anyhow.
Cut the excess legs off just above the solder joint and you're done.
No worries. That's why I'm explaining it. It's not as hard as it sounds though. Things always seem worse explained in text.
Yes, the pad is on the back side of the card. When I say pad I just mean the solder pad which is what the hole is drilled through, it's just a part of the track on the PCB. So component on the top, solder on the other side. It'll all make perfect sense when you put the component on the board.
To get the old solder off just use the braid bit by bit holding it on the pad with the iron heating the braid from the top, it'll soak up the old solder until the hole is back.
Don't get too worried about it. If you don't have any luck on the first try you can cut off the new cap, clean up the board and have another shot though I'll doubt you'll need to.